Thai Religious Holidays and Festivals – Makha Bucha

Have you ever heard of Makha Bucha Day? I don’t remember ever hearing about it until this past month. Let me share with you a little about what I have learned (and all of what I am writing is just my understanding, so I apologize if I get things wrong).

Makha comes from the Pali word that refers to the third lunar month. Bucha translates as “to worship,” so together it means a day in the third month for worshipping. 

 

Makha Bucha is like an “All Saints Day” for adherents of Buddhism. It marks a miraculous event that occurred on a full-moon day in the 5^th century BCE when 1,250 enlightened disciples of the Buddha spontaneously came to him in a bamboo grove in northern India (modern day Nepal). These disciples had been ordained by the Buddha, and thus were his spiritual descendants. The Buddha taught them a summary of Buddhism’s rules (Ovadhapatimokha), including these three principles: doing what is good, refraining from evil, and cleansing the mind. This verse summarizes the principles beautifully:

The practise most excellent is patient enduring,
'Nibbāna most excellent' proclaimed by the Buddhas,
But he is not forthgone who hurteth another
And neither a samana* harrying others.

Every evil never doing
And in skillfulness increasing
And one's heart well-purifying:
This is the Buddha's Sāsana**.

Not insulting, neither harming,
In Pātimokkha*** well-restrained,
Knowing moderation in one's food,
Far away one's sleeping-sitting place,
And striving in the heart sublime:
This is the Buddhas' Sāsana.

*mendicant monk

**teachings of the Buddha

***basic code of monastic discipline

Today people in Thailand celebrate Makha Bucha in various ways. Most notable is joining in a candlelight procession circumnavigating the temple (“wian tian”). By doing this, Buddhists are making merit (I’ll talk more theologically about making merit in a subsequent post; it’s a fascinating concept to me.) Making merit (“tum boon”) is done to improve oneself in the cycle of existence. People also make merit by giving alms to and receiving blessings from monks; listening to Buddhist sermons; meditating; reciting chants, among other activities. They also abstain from drugs, alcohol, and immoral acts such as killing, stealing, and sexual misconduct.

Golden Buddha and Stupa at Khao Wong Prachan

My colleague and friend, Nok, invited me to join her family at a Makha Bucha festival in Lopburi Province, which is about 3 hours northeast of where we work. It was an incredible experience! During our drive to Khao Wong Phrachan, we could see on the mountainside several large Buddha statues; it reminded me of seeing many LDS temples in the foothills of the Wasatch Mountains. I thought our destination was to climb to the second-largest Buddha statue in Thailand (45 meters wide, 75 meters high), but I was wrong; it was the top of the mountain, 3790 steps beyond the base (a little over 1 mile). 

Celebrating Makha Bucha in Lopburi

Six of us began the ascent (grandma, grandpa, their daughter, and a friend decided not to climb) and 2 ½ hours later we arrived at the top, along with thousands and thousands of other people! It was about 99° with 46% humidity, so we were sweating! I was the only foreigner on the mountain, which was pretty cool, and many Thai people were smiling and talking with me because I was such an anomaly in this area where tourists are not likely to visit!

Descending the 3790 Stairs at Khao Wong Prachon

 

At the base and at the top were several religious and cultural icons, statues, and opportunities to worship, make merit, express gratitude, and increase your luck. The spiritual pinnacle is to pay homage to one of only a few depressions of Buddha’s footprint, which is protected by a small shrine and covered in flower garlands, thin golden plates with names of those for whom you want blessings to be bestowed upon, money, incense, and other offerings. 

Praying and Giving Offerings at the Buddha's Footprint

Ascending another 180 steps along the golden-green snake staircase is another shrine, Phra Nang Fah, that houses a golden elephant. From what I understand, adherents show devotion to the Buddha with something in mind that they desire. Then they try to lift the 40-kilogram elephant (about 88 lbs.). They get two chances and if they can lift the elephant, their prayer goes into effect. 

Lift the Golden Elephant for Good Luck

The view from the top of the mountain was spectacular, with 360-degree views of the city and countryside, and an endless stream of people climbing the stairs and driving to the mountain. I enjoyed being at the top of the mountain, taking in the view, listening to the worshippers chant prayers, smelling the food and the incense, sitting in silence, and observing the faith and devotion of the people. 

View from the Top of Khao Wong Prachan

Followers write names of living or dead 
for prayers to ascend to heaven

  

     

                                                                         

On Makha Bucha day, Buddhists believe that they can be purified from three obstacles: greed, hatred, and delusion. Climbing 3790 steps in almost 100° weather is a sign of this devotion. It makes me wonder, “How have I shown devotion to my God today? Have I prayed for my loved ones here on earth or in heaven? How have I done what is good, refrained from evil, and cleansed my mind?” Do I feel God’s love in greater abundance?” My climb to the top of Khao Wong Prachan, feeling the strength, love, and devotion of my Buddhist friends and thousands of other followers, affirms my faith in humankind and in my belief of God's love for me and for my fellow travelers on this earth regardless of how, where, why, who, and if we worship.